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Well, everything is back together and the Gibson saddle has replaced the old adjustable one. The saddle did help get intonation close to perfect, and with your suggestions it has a slightly lower action. It was a fun project, and thank you for your advice. Maybe a neck reset is in the future?

Yes, I’m planning on putting the old bridge back on. The other bridge was off set about 1/8” and was slightly crooked when I put the pins in. I like the idea of the Gibson saddle and that may be the route to take.

I received the maple and it has been cut and glued. I’ll glue the bridge tomorrow. You said that you used a Gibson saddle on an adjustable bridge? Can you provide a photo of that setup?

I never really thought that I’d get the action much lower and a neck reset is way out of my league. Anyway, I haven’t totally given up, I just need to rethink the situation.

I normally remove all the old strings then put the new strings through the bridge and pin them, place my hand in the sound hole and feel to make sure that the balls are in the right place. That may sound odd, but that’s how I do it….. I did a dry fit with the new bridge and it looks as if I’ll have ...

Well, the templates are cut, cauls made, 1/8" Maple ordered... I have fish glue and Titebond original from the earlier. I assume Titebond for both plate and bridge? I feel that I'm ready and hope to glue the plate Thursday night or Friday and the bridge Sat or Sun

I feel as if it's the one ply... If I were to remove any loose pieces and glue wood over the plate. What would be the best thickness? Should I cut a piece the same size and cover it completely, or just a narrow strip? Does it have to be wood, or could it be a thin piece of steel, brass ...

I would've thought this would have been solid, not veneer. I assume the person that drilled the additional hole was the one that screwed up the veneer? https://imgur.com/l4rSmSD

Well, I tackled the bridge and it came off clean, except the small area of finish came off. There were two tiny bolts and nuts, not screws, like it thought. The new bridge and saddle is supposed to arrive Tuesday. I’m a little concerned about the plate underneath the bridge. It feels pretty rough ...

Well, I tackled the bridge and it came of clean, except the small area of finish came off. There were two tiny bolts and nuts, not screws, like it thought. The new bridge and saddle is supposed to arrive Tuesday. I’m a little concerned about the plate underneath the bridge. It feels pretty rough and ...

I had a Martin Custom X and the top was wood, but his was all hpl. Hpl is almost bulletproof and the laminated neck is the same, plus is sounds pretty good. Its biggest downfall, in my opinion, is that the wood to hpl bonding sucks. Hopefully Martin will figure out a solution, if they haven’t ...

Those aren’t bolts, they’re wood screws. I was thinking this may be normal until I felt the ends of the screws, that was a red flag that someone may have reglued the bridge. I have reglued a bridge in the past. I told my neighbor that I’d restring a Martin X series of his. I put the strings on and ...

The guitar does have high action and the intonation is pretty bad. I have ordered a Martin style bridge and bone saddle (Chinese) for $11 usd. I basically bought this guitar to experiment with, but it does sound pretty good, considering all its flaws. Thanks for the reply!

I recently picked up a late 70s El Degas F 175 and I checked it over pretty good, but overlooked the bridge. I didn't notice the crack in the bridge until I was cleaning it, anyway the bridge and saddle looks odd and off-center, and I was wondering if it was original or has it been replaced.
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