more - my first steel string guitar

[beginnersmind]

Ok, so I have had the E.D. for two weeks. I put 11s on it (maybe not light enough). It seems that the bulge in the belly that is lifting the action is maybe pulling the neck forward. I just noticed cracks along the glue joint at the heel of the neck. I immediately loosened the strings. Does anyone know a good luthier in the Phily area? I would need someone who could/would install the JLD Bridge System and go over the glue joints and correct anything else that might be going on with a guitar ignored for 30 years. By the way, I went to G.C. today to get a cheap Yammie to fill the void and while I was there I tried the $900 Martin. Absolutely no comparison to my El Degas! It seemed surprisingly thrown together with a nondescript tone.

[Barry]

Hi beginnersmind, and welcome here. You didn't give us a model number (if there is one on the label inside) but some pictures would be helpful. It sounds like you have one of the Martin replicas, and a very good one too! Beating out the real thing in a comparison, wow, that's high praise indeed!

From what you've described it sounds like the guitar has been under too much tension in a poor environment for a long time. At worst, you might need a neck reset, but your troubles may be easily corrected with a re-gluing and some support under the bridge as you say. It's also possible that a neck adjustment and lighter gauge strings might correct many of the problems with the bulging.
Good luck with it, and please give us some pix when you can.

[beginnersmind]

Hi, sorry about that. I had posted a link in my first entry about my guitar. You can see pictures at
myguitarpictures.shutterfly.com It is an F218 Thanks for your comments.

[Barry]

I had posted a link in my first entry about my guitar.

Ah, OK. Now I'm with you Elizabeth. (It's best if you stay within your original topic post; makes it hard to follow the thread otherwise. )

Sorry to hear she's not responding.
It sounds very much like you'll need the neck reset then; that is, removed, cleaned, and re-glued. Even Martins need to have this procedure done, it's fairly common. But I doubt that you can get satisfactory results by trying to "squirt" glue into the open crack, and I'd discourage you from letting anyone try that. You also have the option to adjust the heel angle at that time too.

Unfortunately this is a labour intensive operation, and in the Toronto area would cost $200-300. It's a lot at first look, however, given the build quality of the guitar, and your recent experience comparing it to a new Martin, well...I think it's justifiable. An experienced luthier can assess the bridge bulge at the same time. It may turn out not to be as bad a problem as you think. You mentioned your "tech" in the first post, does he not know of anyone who can help?

She's a beautiful instrument and worth the effort to make her 'right' again. Good luck!

[charles]

Yeah, the description definitely sounds like a neck reset is necessary - but a trip to a good luthier will confirm that for you.

Unfortunately I am a couple of thousand miles away so I can't help with the luthier choice - but I wish you the best of luck.

[Neverthought]

Hi, just bought one like this. did anybody find out what the "F" in F218 is? It has some scratches and very small cracks or de-lamination at a few places in the purfling. Any suggestions on refinishing it (light sanding and varnish?) or should I leave it as is?
Thanks,
P

[Barry]

Hello neverthought, and welcome. The F usually refers to a Fender copy.
Pictures would be helpful before giving any advice, but purfling should be an easy repair. But whatever you do stay away from varnishing the cracks! The finish on these guitars is likely nitro-cellulose (or possibly lacquer). Varnish will cause damage and will not match the finish.

[charles]

I don't think we've figured out what the F stands for - I originally thought it was for Fender, but the F-218 most resembles (to me anyway) a Martin. Could be wrong - it might be the first guess.